How A Designer Knots -- And Styles -- A Bow Tie

你会解领结──甚或是打领结吗？长期以来，人们一直认为领结是背离潮流的古董。如今它却神奇回归，成了一种时髦配饰。不过，对很多男士来说，打领结还是挺令人犯难的一件事情。如何打出完美的蝴蝶领结设计师亚历山大·奥尔齐(Alexander Olch)介绍了一套打出完美蝴蝶领结的详细步骤。雷·史密斯(Ray Smith)报道。不过，31岁的领带设计师亚历山大·奥尔齐(Alexander Olch)坚持认为，打领结并非人们想像地那么难。他说：“其实就跟系鞋带一样。区别只是这根鞋带是系在你脖子上的。”两年前，奥尔齐推出了以自己名字命名的手工领结领带系列产品，质地有亚麻泡泡纱毛料丝光棉等等。很快，他的产品便打入了波道夫·古德曼时尚精品店(Bergdorf Goodman)，并且登上了包括GQ《名利场》(Vanity Fair)在内的一众时尚杂志。他也认为，最好是对着镜子来打领结。按照他的建议，首先你要把领结带绕到脖子上，让脖子右边的部分比左边长个一英寸左右，然后开始打结，绕一圈再穿过去。接着拿起右边的部分，把它折成一个圈，这样就形成了领结的一边。接下来的步骤就有些复杂了：用右手握住这个部分，把领结的左边部分绕这个部分缠一圈，然后折上来，再把它从和你右手拇指之间形成的那个带圈里穿过去，这样就算完成了。奥尔齐说：“也许看起来不是很完美，不过这就是要点，你需要做的就是先打好结，然后再根据自己的喜好来调整。”当年在哈佛大学拍摄毕业影片时，他为大伙儿设计的一些领带领结得到了好评，后来他便以此为业。他说：“手打的领结的好处之一就是总是会有一点点松。夹式领结通常就比较完美。每个人的领结都是独一无二的，因为一般来说，每个人都有自己特有的打领结方式，关键看你怎么调整。”Tom Bloom奥尔齐认为，领结不仅适用于婚礼以及需穿小礼服并带黑领结的宴会之类的特殊场合。举例来说，最近他去参加一次聚会时便打了个深蓝色领结，配上海军礼服白衬衫海军上装便服，下身是黑色宽松长裤和白色运动鞋。他说：“领结应该在你的日常衣着中占有一席之地，对此我深信不疑。”如今的时髦青年都喜欢穿休闲正装──配有领尖钉纽扣领圈的衬衣仔裤运动鞋，要让领结跟这种装扮协调就要做到低调含蓄，在选择领结面料的时候更要加倍留意。纯真丝的领结肯定是不行的。他说：“不要选择那种光洁发亮的领结，不要选太过引人注目的领结。”他建议，领结面料最好采用表面无光的亚麻布之类的东西，这样“感觉会比较随意”，从而缓解领结固有的那种正经死板的感觉。他说，如果你寻求的是“随意打个领结”的感觉，这就是其中要义。Ray A. Smith相关阅读矮个男士的完美着装 2009-03-13今年流行睡衣风格男装？ 2008-09-09


Can you pull off a bow tie -- or even put one on?Bow ties, long thought of as the antithesis of hip, have made a surprising comeback recently as a trendy fashion accessory. For a lot of men, though, the idea of tying that knot is a little intimidating.Neckwear designer Alexander Olch insists tying a bow tie isn't as hard as people fear. 'It is exactly like tying a shoelace,' says the 31-year-old. Mr. Olch launched his eponymous line of handmade bow and straight ties in linen, seersucker, wool and silk-cotton blends two years ago and saw his goods quickly picked up by Bergdorf Goodman and buzzed about in magazines, including GQ and Vanity Fair. 'What's counterintuitive is that it's a shoelace against your neck,' he adds.He does allow that the process is best done in front of a mirror. First, he instructs, put the tie around your neck, setting it so that the right side is an inch or so longer than the left. Then, knot the tie, one time over and then through. Proceed to take the right side of the tie and fold it over to form the first bow.Here it gets tricky: Holding on to the right side with your right hand, take the left half of the tie, string it over once and then bring it up and tuck it through the loop where your thumb is holding the right side. As you push it through, the knot is formed.'It may not look perfect, but that's precisely the point; all you need to do is form the knot, and then you're able to adjust it per your tastes,' says the designer, who started his business after some neckwear that he made for the crew on his Harvard University thesis film received an encouraging response.'One of the nice things about a hand-tied bow tie is that it's always a little off. Clip-ons tend to be quite perfect,' he says. 'A bow tie will always be worn uniquely on a person because the way they happened to tie that knot will by and large be unique to them. It's all in the adjusting.'Mr. Olch (long 'o,' as in 'show') believes bow ties don't have to be restricted to special occasions like weddings or black-tie events. He recently went to a party wearing a navy-blue bow tie with a navy dress shirt, navy blazer, black slacks and white sneakers. 'I've felt very strongly that bow ties have a place in your everyday dressing decisions,' he says.One key to making a bow tie work with casual attire such as button-down shirts or jeans or sneakers -- the way it's being sported by fashionable young men -- is going for subtlety, especially when it comes to material. That means no 100% silk ties.'Not shiny, not glossy, not bow ties that will draw attention,' he says, suggesting fabrics like linen that have a matte finish, which is 'meant to feel quite casual' and tone down a bow tie's inherently rigid formality. That's the way to go, he says, if you are looking to 'effortlessly wear a bow tie.'Ray A. Smith