Men's Clothes, Now In Technicolor...

Dan LeccaBottega Veneta Men Spring 09 Milan 06/22/08宝缇嘉的男装采用了橙色男士春季着装小贴示：如果你适合的话，不妨考虑粉色。还有橙色淡紫以及金属蓝。春装已开始上市，以往长期主宰男装（即便是春季）的黑色灰色藏青色和棕色如今正在让位于诸多斑斓的彩色。Spurr男装品牌Spurr也增加了亮丽色彩高档百货商场波道夫·古德曼(Bergdorf Goodman)男士时尚总监汤米·法奇奥(Tommy Fazio)说，这是我们的一个重要趋势。他介绍说，他们已经备下了色彩鲜亮的毛线衫衬衫和短外套。亮色风正吹进了Kiton这样的传统品牌，渗进了宝缇嘉(Bottega Veneta)等设计师产品，甚至影响到了波道夫的自有品牌系列。法奇奥说，亮色是欢快喜悦和新颍的。他又接着说，如今是明亮色的“大好时光”，似乎部分影射了当前经济的蓝调。在这个春季，即便是那些长期锺爱柔和色调的品牌──希尔瑞(Theory)派瑞·艾力斯(Perry Ellis)Bamford & SonsTony Melillo以及Band of Outsiders──都加入了更加明亮的色彩。以往销售雅致黑衣和深色仔裤的Spurr品牌，如今产品线也新添了淡紫色毛线衫和青绿色牛仔裤。今年春季，梅西百货(Macy's)将在旗下所有商店出售24个色彩的自有品牌马球衫。该商店以往只在大城市商店提供全色彩产品，其他商店只有12-16种色彩服装可供选择。时装展示鼓励男士们从头到脚穿着不同深浅的蓝色──例如天蓝的衬衫配上品蓝的毛线衫和藏青色裤子，外面再披一件金属蓝的带帽夹克。销售员正在接受培训以强化这一信息。梅西百货美东男装时尚总监斯蒂文·卡尔蒂诺(Stephen Cardino)说，较之蓝白或是蓝棕两色搭配，渐变蓝色能带来更为清新更为现代的感受。Macy's梅西百货的全色彩系列衬衫这一色彩新潮到来之时，正值消费者除了必需品不愿再进行任何消费之际。一些时尚专家表示，设计师应当意识到严峻的气氛，专注于保守风格和基本点。持不同观点的人反驳说，亮色彩会令男士感到清新和与众不同，促使男士打开钱包消费。去年紫色曾令人吃惊地在男装中大行其道，鼓舞着一些设计师继续大胆尝试在色彩上做文章。咨询公司AllBusiness.com的零售业专家麦克·克劳斯(Mike Kraus)表示，零售商在吸引顾客购物方面已是无计可施，因此不得不采取大胆举动。他认为，今年春天亮色彩会在男装中大受欢迎。当然，现在上市的许多服装早在去年秋天全球金融市场崩溃之前就已经设计完成了。但纽约FIT流行设计学院(Fashion Institute of Technology)的男装设计系主任马克-伊文·布莱克曼(Mark-Evan Blackman)说，经济不景气的时候，男士会更为青睐他们目前所没有的服装。但他补充称，我不是说经济不景气的时候男士就会去买华丽艳俗的服装。Dan LeccaCK的荧光色男装实际上，去年在2009年春季男装发布会上出现的一些大胆出位的全身亮色服装可能会无人问津。举例来说，吉尔·桑达(Jil Sander)曾展示过一套向日葵黄色的服装，以及带有红色半截袖的蓝白两色夹克，搭配红色裤子。卡尔文·克莱恩(Calvin Klein)也展出过更为明亮的黄色和荧光红的服装。在卡尔文·克莱恩的男装创意总监伊塔洛·祖切里(Italo Zucchelli)看来，男士们现在愿意在色彩方面花俏一把。但康涅狄格州45岁的独立软件开发商迪恩·艾耶(Dean Ayer)说，象马球衫这样随意的服装，他可能会愿意买一件颜色鲜艳的，但对正装衬衫他就不太愿尝试色彩了，更不用提短外套了。他说，短外套可是比衬衫更贵的投资，亮色衬衫搭配黑外套可要比黑衬衫搭配亮外套容易。Spurr以深色调闻名的Spurr推出了淡紫色的春装明亮的色彩也不适合每个人。《男士着装》(Dressing the Man)一书的作者阿兰·弗鲁瑟(Alan Flusser)表示，鲜明色调最适合拥有白皮肤黑头发的“高对比”男士，或是那些拥有深褐色皮肤的人。皮肤头发颜色都比较淡的男士应该选择柔和色调。芝加哥形像顾问罗宾·沃克尔(Robin Walker)表示，男士应该避免一身单色，可以使用灰色这样的中色来平衡色调。她还在BlogTalkRadio电台主持着《Tailored Edges》节目，提出男士风格方面的建议。沃克尔说，你要给眼睛一个歇息的地方。为了平衡起见，需要使用中色来补充色调，而不能加深对比。黄黑两色搭配很刺眼，但黄色和炭灰色的碰撞就令人愉快。沃克尔还推荐只在上身接近面部的地方使用亮色。她说，如果你在下身穿着亮色，人们就会首先往下看。Ray A. Smith


Spring wardrobe memo to men: Think pink. And orange, lilac and cobalt blue, while you're at it.As stores start filling up with spring fashions, the blacks, grays, navys and beiges that have long reigned in menswear -- even in spring -- are giving way to a rainbow of Crayola colors.'It's one of the key trends for us,' says Tommy Fazio, men's fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman, who says the high-end store has stocked up on bright sweaters, shirts and sport coats. Color is flowing into traditional labels like Kiton, designer lines like Bottega Veneta and even Bergdorf's private-label collection. Color is 'cheery, happy and new,' he says. 'It's a good time' for color, he adds, alluding in part to the current economic blues.This spring, even labels that have long favored muted shades -- including Theory, Perry Ellis, Bamford & Sons, Tony Melillo and Band of Outsiders -- have added brighter colors. Spurr, which typically sells sleek black clothes and dark denim, now includes lilac sweaters and turquoise jeans in its lineup.For spring, Macy's will stock its private-label polos in 24 colors at all of its stores. In the past, it offered the full collection only at big-city stores, with other stores carrying just 12 to 16 shades. Displays will encourage men to layer different shades of blue from head to toe -- for instance, a sky-blue shirt with a royal blue sweater and navy pants, topped off by a cobalt blue anorak -- and salespeople are being trained to reinforce the message. Layering blues offers a fresher, 'more contemporary edge than just putting blue and white or blue and tan together,' says Stephen Cardino, a men's fashion director at the Macy's East division.The new emphasis on color comes at a time when consumers are reluctant to spend on anything but essentials. Some fashion experts say that designers should take heed of the sober mood and focus on conservative styles and basics.The counterargument is that color will put men in the mood to open their wallets, since it will look fresh and different. Purple took off in a surprisingly big way in menswear last year, emboldening some designers to get more aggressive about color.Retailers are 'out of options to try to get the customer to shop, so they have to be bold,' says Mike Kraus, a retail specialist at consultant AllBusiness.com, who believes color will play well among men this spring.Of course, many of the clothes hitting stores now were in the works long before global financial markets melted down in the fall. But in hard times, men respond best to clothes 'they don't already have,' says Mark-Evan Blackman, chairman of the menswear design department at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York.He adds, however, that 'I don't think in bad times men are going to buy the most outrageous, colorful items.'Indeed, some of the bolder head-to-toe uses of color seen last year on the spring 2009 menswear runways could be a tough sell. Jil Sander, for instance, showed a suit in 'sunflower' yellow, along with a blue and white jacket with red half sleeves, worn with red slacks. And Calvin Klein's show included suits in highlighter yellow and fluorescent red.In the view of Calvin Klein Men's creative director Italo Zucchelli, men 'are willing to have some fun with color.'But Dean Ayer, a 45-year-old independent software developer, in New Haven, Conn., says that he would be more likely to buy a colorful casual item, such as a polo shirt, than a colorful spread-collar dress shirt. And forget about a bright sport coat, he says. 'A sport coat is a larger investment than a shirt,' he notes, adding that it's easier to tone down a bright shirt with a dark jacket than vice versa.Bright colors are not for everyone. Bold shades look best on 'high contrast' men with light skin and dark hair or those with dark brown skin, says Alan Flusser, author of 'Dressing the Man.' Men with pale skin and hair should opt for softer shades.Men should avoid head-to-toe color, says Robin Walker, a Chicago-based image consultant and host of BlogTalkRadio's 'Tailored Edges,' a style advice show for men. Instead, she suggests balancing any color with a neutral like gray. 'You want to give the eye a place to rest,' she says. To achieve a balance, she notes, the neutral needs to complement the color, rather than contrast with it. 'Yellow and black is harsh, but yellow and charcoal is delightful,' she says.She also recommends limiting bright colors to the upper body, close to the face. 'If you wear it on your lower half,' she says, 'that's exactly where people are going to look first.'Ray A. Smith